Need some play.
Need some play.
Multiple broken wire and switches. Bad GI connectors and failed Optos on the drop targets.
This is just a little reminder so I can find the part numbers easily when I need them thanks to:
Trifurcon Connector Pins.
Molex makes a crimp-on .156″ size female terminal pin called a “trifurcon” pin (not available in the .100″ pin size). This style .156″ pin differs than the “normal” pin; the metal material is more heat resistant, and it has three wiper contacts instead of just one. The more contact points means the female pin “hugs” the male header pin with greater surface area. I highly recommend these. They are available from Digikey (800-344-4539 or http://www.digikey.com). You can also view the specs for these pins at http://www.molex.com/product/pcb/6838.html. Compares these to the “normal” connector pin specs at http://www.molex.com/product/pcb/2478.html.
Note Molex sells these pins in “strips” or on a “reel”. Do NOT buy connector pins this way! Always buy them in “bags” (separated). It’s just too difficult to cut them when they are in strips. If you don’t do a good job cutting them, they won’t insert into their plastic housing correctly. Also always get the tin plated version, NOT the gold plated pins.
.156″ Trifurcon pins (three wipers): Digikey part# WM2313-ND (Molex part# 08-52-0113, for 18 to 24 gauge wire). Price is $1.02 for 10, $8.50 for 100.
.156″ tin pins (one wiper): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 08-50-0106, for 18 to 24 gauge wire). Price is $0.06 each.
Board Mounted Header Pins.
These are available in several styles. Get the most number of pins available, and cut the header to the size you need. They also come with a “lock” and without a lock. The lock variety is what you’ll use the most.
.156″ header pins with lock (12 pins): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 26-48-1125, $0.94 each.
.156″ header pins with no lock (12 pins): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 26-48-1121, $0.70 each.
Sometimes you’ll have to replace the plastic connector housing too if it is burnt, in addition to the pins within the housing. Get the most number of pins available, and cut the connector to the size you need.
.156″ white housings (12 pins): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 09-50-3121, $0.79 each.
.156″ black hi-temp housing: Williams part #5792-13384-xx. The “xx” is the number of pins for the housing from “02” to “18”.
A polarized peg is a small nylon plug that go into the connector housing so the housing is “keyed” (you can’t plug it into the wrong board header pin connector). I highly recommend using these if you replace a connector housing.
.156″ polarized peg: Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 15-04-0220, $0.13 each.
Hijacked straight from http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html
2d. Before Turning the Game On: Should I leave my Game Powered On?
This is a very common question. After all, arcades leave their games on almost continually with minimal damage (that you know of!). So why not do it with your game at home?
Although commercial pinball machines can handle being powered on continually, I would recommend you do not leave your games turned on when not in use. Here are some reasons:
- Electronic score displays on your game have a limited life, which is proportional to how much time they have been turned on.
- General illumination circuits will be stressed. Burnt pins and connectors are very common on games that are on for extended periods of time.
- Light bulbs don’t last forever, and aren’t all that easy to change on a playfield.
- The bulbs, displays, fans, and transformers only attract dirt when they are on. Leaving your game on means sucking dirt out of the air and depositing it into your machine.
- Heat generated by the general illumination lamps can warp playfield plastics or help delaminate backglass paint.
- Electricity is a precious resource. Conserve it! An electronic game from this era consumes about 4 amps in attract mode. So leaving your game on is like running a 240 watt light bulb. By comparison, an entire stereo system plus a television use about the same amount of power.
Leaving your pin on all the time can cost much more than any potential damage you could do turning it off and on as you need it.
This is a system 80A from 1984. It has no backglass because I often tell service customers to leave that fragile place safely stored at home.
This one had sound problems, broken flipper and a failed diode. I also performed the ground mods that should be done on all gottlieb from System 1 until system 3. Notice the Green/Yellow wires added:
Here is one more going out to earn its keep:
bad trough switches, broken back box, no general illumination on playfield, jury-rigged plunger, bad coin switch, no tilt bob.
Above are pictures of the coveted Amplifone PAT9000 X-Y Chassis. The tube was originally a M48AAW00X. My research indicates that this chassis can drive both 19″ and 25 ” 100 degrees CRT’s.
Virtual Solar Ride: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,121653.0.html
Virtual Galaxy (The one I kept): http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=23285
Mystical Encounters: http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=25914&hl=encounters
My MiniPin that started it all: http://www.vpforums.org/index.php?showtopic=20030
I stumbled across this technical history on my favorite game of all time:
I just love this game for all the reasons in the article. It is my hope to one day have 6 or 8 seats in a climate-controlled trailer to rent out. Even though Mario Kart would probably be a better candidate, I love Alcatraz so much that I would choose it over an even more profitable game. I owned a pair of these and sold them to a local guy 2 years ago. There is one at Bones arcade here in Billings that has crappy steering but is otherwise good. And I just finished up repairing a customer’s machine that will be found in Thermopolis Wyoming soon.
In the meantime, I’m testing, testing, testing……