The game was stored in a shed at the Paradise Valley KOA for many years. It had several minor problems. This game uses the same control boards as a Space Invaders. It uses a copper clad plate for aiming and works great.
This machine will be out in the wild fishing for quarters at Paradise Valley KOA Kampground. It has been on location for many years and needed a little maintenance and repair:
Reset Relay Switch Adjustment
P1 10’s Zero Switch Adjustment
Bad Motor Clutch
Player Unit Sticking
Setup, Config, Test
This machine had a burnt “Man Load” Coil, a couple of broken switches, a sticking coin relay, burnt out starter and bulb and a few other little things. It will go into a commercial setting so many of the bulbs were replaced with LED’s, the backbox field was cleaned and the playfield was cleaned and waxed. It’s a great game for one or two players.
This nice machine will be found in the Paradise Valley KOA campground store shortly.
This machine came in dead. Monitor won’t stay on and main board won’t boot.
Replaced Main Board (Lower Right) – $465 Exchange
Next, it boots and reports I/O Board (Lower Left) Error – $365 Exchange
Next, it boots up and runs a couple of hours before another failure
The game reports A/I Board (Upper Left) Error – $350 Exchange
Add in another $45 for the $17 in UPS charges and the parts cost is already at $1225.
Now it’s time to burn it in for a couple of days before going after the broken display. The test TV might replace the Wells Gardner LCD if it can’t be fixed.
Recommendation – DO NOT BUY ONE OF THESE!
I guess I’ll find out sooner or later and update this post when I find out.
When I send these out to home environments, I throw these alligator clips on the credit unit switch so no coins are needed. If they ever want to go back to quarters, just pull the alligator leads… or better yet, clip them on the insulation so you remember where they go if you want to go back to freeplay.
I just got this in. It needs an MPU PCB50210125H and the apron plexi is broken. The MPU board is missing but otherwise it seems complete.
This is the best web page I have found on it:
This is just a little reminder so I can find the part numbers easily when I need them thanks to:
Trifurcon Connector Pins.
Molex makes a crimp-on .156″ size female terminal pin called a “trifurcon” pin (not available in the .100″ pin size). This style .156″ pin differs than the “normal” pin; the metal material is more heat resistant, and it has three wiper contacts instead of just one. The more contact points means the female pin “hugs” the male header pin with greater surface area. I highly recommend these. They are available from Digikey (800-344-4539 or http://www.digikey.com). You can also view the specs for these pins at http://www.molex.com/product/pcb/6838.html. Compares these to the “normal” connector pin specs at http://www.molex.com/product/pcb/2478.html.
Note Molex sells these pins in “strips” or on a “reel”. Do NOT buy connector pins this way! Always buy them in “bags” (separated). It’s just too difficult to cut them when they are in strips. If you don’t do a good job cutting them, they won’t insert into their plastic housing correctly. Also always get the tin plated version, NOT the gold plated pins.
.156″ Trifurcon pins (three wipers): Digikey part# WM2313-ND (Molex part# 08-52-0113, for 18 to 24 gauge wire). Price is $1.02 for 10, $8.50 for 100.
.156″ tin pins (one wiper): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 08-50-0106, for 18 to 24 gauge wire). Price is $0.06 each.
Board Mounted Header Pins.
These are available in several styles. Get the most number of pins available, and cut the header to the size you need. They also come with a “lock” and without a lock. The lock variety is what you’ll use the most.
.156″ header pins with lock (12 pins): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 26-48-1125, $0.94 each.
.156″ header pins with no lock (12 pins): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 26-48-1121, $0.70 each.
Sometimes you’ll have to replace the plastic connector housing too if it is burnt, in addition to the pins within the housing. Get the most number of pins available, and cut the connector to the size you need.
.156″ white housings (12 pins): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 09-50-3121, $0.79 each.
.156″ black hi-temp housing: Williams part #5792-13384-xx. The “xx” is the number of pins for the housing from “02” to “18”.
A polarized peg is a small nylon plug that go into the connector housing so the housing is “keyed” (you can’t plug it into the wrong board header pin connector). I highly recommend using these if you replace a connector housing.
.156″ polarized peg: Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 15-04-0220, $0.13 each.
This is a system 80A from 1984. It has no backglass because I often tell service customers to leave that fragile place safely stored at home.
This one had sound problems, broken flipper and a failed diode. I also performed the ground mods that should be done on all gottlieb from System 1 until system 3. Notice the Green/Yellow wires added: