I found the parts for $400 shipped, but I don’t think I can sell it for more than $500, so I’m letting this project go.
$100 As-Is.
http://billings.craigslist.org/vgm/5600398667.html
Brought in some new work – Bulk Buy Arcade Machines and Cabinets
Should end up with a working NFL Blitz ’99, Pac-Man, Pole Position (I or II), Capcom Bowling, centipede cocktail and a couple of project cabinets. Lots of coin doors and a few control panels. More info to come…
Asteroids Deluxe Repaired and Sold
This machine came in with a dead G05 and the wrong light fixture in it. Sent the monitor out for repair and luckily I had another light fixture to get the black-light lit background restored to its former glory. A little more work on the coin door and this one will be for sale for $450.
Inside the Allied Leisure Cocktail Pinball Machine (Circa 1933 by Fascination Int., Inc.)
Sadly, this cocktail is being parted out. The MPU is missing and the replacement is cost prohibitive. These are just a few photos I wanted archived for future reference.
And this is a picture of the board that is missing:
Allied Leisure Cocktail Pinball Circa 1933 needs MPU
I just got this in. It needs an MPU PCB50210125H and the apron plexi is broken. The MPU board is missing but otherwise it seems complete.
This is the best web page I have found on it:
http://www.flippers.com/ALI-Pinball_service.html
Any tips?
Elvira and the Party Monsters in test mode.
Need some play.
Elvira and the Party Monsters Pinball Torn down for Repair and Shop
Multiple broken wire and switches. Bad GI connectors and failed Optos on the drop targets.
TrifurcoN Connector Pins and Molex Connector Housings.
This is just a little reminder so I can find the part numbers easily when I need them thanks to:
http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html
Trifurcon Connector Pins.
Molex makes a crimp-on .156″ size female terminal pin called a “trifurcon” pin (not available in the .100″ pin size). This style .156″ pin differs than the “normal” pin; the metal material is more heat resistant, and it has three wiper contacts instead of just one. The more contact points means the female pin “hugs” the male header pin with greater surface area. I highly recommend these. They are available from Digikey (800-344-4539 or http://www.digikey.com). You can also view the specs for these pins at http://www.molex.com/product/pcb/6838.html. Compares these to the “normal” connector pin specs at http://www.molex.com/product/pcb/2478.html.
Note Molex sells these pins in “strips” or on a “reel”. Do NOT buy connector pins this way! Always buy them in “bags” (separated). It’s just too difficult to cut them when they are in strips. If you don’t do a good job cutting them, they won’t insert into their plastic housing correctly. Also always get the tin plated version, NOT the gold plated pins.
.156″ Trifurcon pins (three wipers): Digikey part# WM2313-ND (Molex part# 08-52-0113, for 18 to 24 gauge wire). Price is $1.02 for 10, $8.50 for 100.
.156″ tin pins (one wiper): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 08-50-0106, for 18 to 24 gauge wire). Price is $0.06 each.
Board Mounted Header Pins.
These are available in several styles. Get the most number of pins available, and cut the header to the size you need. They also come with a “lock” and without a lock. The lock variety is what you’ll use the most.
.156″ header pins with lock (12 pins): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 26-48-1125, $0.94 each.
.156″ header pins with no lock (12 pins): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 26-48-1121, $0.70 each.
Connector Housings.
Sometimes you’ll have to replace the plastic connector housing too if it is burnt, in addition to the pins within the housing. Get the most number of pins available, and cut the connector to the size you need.
.156″ white housings (12 pins): Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 09-50-3121, $0.79 each.
.156″ black hi-temp housing: Williams part #5792-13384-xx. The “xx” is the number of pins for the housing from “02” to “18”.
Polarized Pegs.
A polarized peg is a small nylon plug that go into the connector housing so the housing is “keyed” (you can’t plug it into the wrong board header pin connector). I highly recommend using these if you replace a connector housing.
.156″ polarized peg: Hosfelt (800-524-6464) part# 15-04-0220, $0.13 each.
Should I leave my Pinball Machine on all the time?
Hijacked straight from http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html
2d. Before Turning the Game On: Should I leave my Game Powered On?
This is a very common question. After all, arcades leave their games on almost continually with minimal damage (that you know of!). So why not do it with your game at home?
Although commercial pinball machines can handle being powered on continually, I would recommend you do not leave your games turned on when not in use. Here are some reasons:
- Electronic score displays on your game have a limited life, which is proportional to how much time they have been turned on.
- General illumination circuits will be stressed. Burnt pins and connectors are very common on games that are on for extended periods of time.
- Light bulbs don’t last forever, and aren’t all that easy to change on a playfield.
- The bulbs, displays, fans, and transformers only attract dirt when they are on. Leaving your game on means sucking dirt out of the air and depositing it into your machine.
- Heat generated by the general illumination lamps can warp playfield plastics or help delaminate backglass paint.
- Electricity is a precious resource. Conserve it! An electronic game from this era consumes about 4 amps in attract mode. So leaving your game on is like running a 240 watt light bulb. By comparison, an entire stereo system plus a television use about the same amount of power.
Leaving your pin on all the time can cost much more than any potential damage you could do turning it off and on as you need it.
Gottlieb “The Games” pinball machine repaired and ready for pickup.
This is a system 80A from 1984. It has no backglass because I often tell service customers to leave that fragile place safely stored at home.
This one had sound problems, broken flipper and a failed diode. I also performed the ground mods that should be done on all gottlieb from System 1 until system 3. Notice the Green/Yellow wires added:
